How to use barrier renew retinal serum
How to use barrier renew retinal serum
Barrier renew retinal serum has been formulated to be gentle, yet effective. Even so, if you're new to using retinoids and / or have sensitive skin, please start slow and build up gradually to let your skin adjust and minimise the chance of irritation. Whilst retinoids aren't for everyone, a lot of the issues people report with using retinoids are down to the strength, frequency of use, and not considering skin barrier health (in terms of the current state of your skin, but also what else you use in your routine), so please read this guide carefully to ensure you have the best experience with your retinal serum!
How to adjust your routine for retinoid use:
- Don't start a retinoid if your skin barrier is disrupted / if your skin is sensitised - wait until its fully recovered before introducing any actives
- Streamline your routine, at least at the start: avoid using exfoliating actives (i.e. avoid chemical and physical exfoliants) in the same routine
- First time retinoid users / those with sensitive skin: scale back the frequency / strength of any exfoliants and ascorbic acid elsewhere in your skincare routine (i.e. even on other days) as your skin adjusts to the retinal
- Always apply the retinal serum to clean, dry skin (as damp skin enhances penetration, so can increase irritation risk). E.g my typical routine is:
- after cleansing I apply skin quenching essence, barrier support serum then let these dry down. Then I apply 1-2 pumps of barrier renew retinal serum to the skin, gently massage in and let it dry down. I may then apply a small amount of moisturiser some time later depending on how my skin is feeling
- For sensitive skin, patch test first on a small area of the face (e.g jawline) and observe your skin for a couple of days in case of reactions before applying to the full face, following the method below
- Sensitive skin may benefit from the either of the following methods to minimise irritation (initially or long term):
- sandwich method: after cleansing, apply your usual routine (essence/toner, hydrating serums, moisturiser) and let it dry down. Then apply your retinal. Let it sink into the skin then if needed, apply another layer of moisturiser as a last step. Ensure you use a "bland" moisturiser without exfoliating actives etc (skin quenching or comforting moisturisers are perfect for this!)
- dilution method: mix a small amount of retinal serum with a small amount of moisturiser and apply these to clean, dry skin
- This serum can be applied all over the face, eye neck and chest however, avoid any areas that are particularly sensitive for you or try the sandwich / dilution methods
- Make sure you’re wearing sunscreen daily (this goes without saying!)
Frequency of use
Initially start using your retinal twice a week, spaced apart for a couple of weeks (space apart applications because "retinisation" often happens within a couple of days of application). If all goes well, then you can increase to 3 times a week for a couple of weeks. Ultimately, you can aim to be using this 3-4 nights a week (sensitive skin may need to stick with twice a week - listen to your skin!).
My current routine is to use this 4 nights a week, then I exfoliate 2 nights a week with the remaining night focussed purely on hydration and barrier support. This routine seems to be working well for me at the moment, but as always, be guided by how your own skin responds!
Irritation vs purging
Purging is a possibility (though doesn't always happen!) with retinoids in skin that's already breakout-prone and more likely with prescription retinoids because of their potency. This is because they work by regulating skin cell turnover and cleaning out your pores, which can bring underlying spots to the surface, but this is temporary as your skin adjusts to retinoids - so it will pass. Spots take several weeks to develop before they even appear on the surface, and as retinoids will take a bit of time to regulate turnover, it's unlikely to happen when you immediately start retinoids. That said, many people experience no issues - this doesn't mean it's not working though, negative skin reactions aren't necessary to show the product it working!
Sometimes it's hard to distinguish between purging and irritation, but there are subtle differences to look out for and they are managed differently (i.e. you shouldn't "push through" irritation!):
| Purging: | Irritation: |
| Temporary, when acclimating at the start, but usually after quite a few uses | Happens every time you use product, doesn't ease off, often immediate (e.g. same or next day) |
| More likely in breakout-prone skin (where you typically break out - for me, this is my lower cheeks / jawline) | Soreness, stinging, redness, peeling, lots of little bumps/texture |
| Gradually improves once pores are "cleaned out" | Typically more diffuse (larger area) or in areas that are more reactive (for me this is always the top of my cheekbones!) |
| Continue use! | Scale back use if mild (e.g. slight tingling on application will likely ease up), or stop altogether if you experience significant irritation! |
Contraindications
Retinoids can be used by most people, but they must be avoided completely when pregnant or trying to conceive. Many experts also advise avoiding retinoids during breastfeeding however this is likely a carry over from warnings for pregnant women out of caution, because according to the LactMed database for tretinoin, whilst not explicitly studied, it's poorly absorbed after topical application so considered low risk to the nursing infant (providing you're not applying it to your breasts), and topical retinoids won't get into breastmilk. Dr Aegean Chan, a US dermatologist and mum has written a lot of content on use of skincare actives in pregnancy / breastfeeding so I'd recommend checking out her posts on this topic or speaking to a dermatologist for further advice.
Hope you find this guide helpful! The main messages are: slow and steady win the race, and be guided by how your own skin responds as we're all different! If you have any questions, please feel free to get in touch with me!
List of charities Apothaka donated to since launch:
Medecins sans frontieres - UK
Medecins sans frontieres do incredible work providing life-saving medical care in crisis zones. And unfortunately there are so many needs around the world right now - they operate in places like Gaza, Sudan, Ukraine & Afghanistan, working in very difficult and often dangerous situations.
Emergency Medical Aid for Ukraine
My Slovakian friend, Michaela Ruby is working closely with an amazing Slovakian charity ADRA which is based at the border helping with emergency medial aid purchases and transport to Ukraine. Apothaka, together with Luneia Skincare donated a proportion of sales from a collaboration to these efforts.
Incredible Brilliant Youth - London
Incredible Brilliant Youth is a fun, innovative youth organisation that was set up in July 2012 to help empower and improve the confidence of young people aged 11-30 through courses, workshops and talks on self esteem, beauty, education and employment. To date they have worked with over 2000 people across the South of England.
After the success of the IBY Complete Hair and Makeup Artist course in the Summer, all six graduates went on to paid work on photoshoots, adverts, TV shows and films. How amazing is that, especially in an industry that's been hit so hard by COVID19?!
Stephen Lawrence charitable trust (now called Blueprint for all)– London
Blueprint for all (formerly Stephen Lawrence Charitable Trust) works with young people and communities to create an inclusive society in which everyone, regardless of their race, ethnicity or background can thrive.
Their programmes provide inspiration, opportunities and support to talented young people, enabling them to succeed. They work with innovative organisations and businesses to address disparity of opportunity, so everyone’s talents, skills and perspectives are valued. And we empower communities across the UK to tackle inequality and discrimination for long term, sustainable change.
NHS Health heroes (Healing Hands – Hemel Hempstead & Kings College ICU staff)
Apothaka donated a number of larger hand cream samples to a local initiative in the area, Healing Hands, which gets much needed skincare products to front line NHS workers. A batch went to Hemel Hospital and in total, Apothaka has donated over 70 samples, including some to local NHS staff in Berkhamsted and to King's College ICU staff (thanks to Yasmine @peels_masks_and_scrubs who has been doing an amazing job of getting goodie bags to the wonderful staff there)
DENS - Dacorum, Herts
This wonderful local charity supports and empowers those in my area that face homelessness, poverty & social exclusion, by providing access to temporary accommodation, food and provisions as well as supporting them with the development of skills and confidence to build a better future.
The Joseph School – Haiti
50% of Haitian children don't have the opportunity to attend school. The Joseph School believes that through education students will teach and empower hundreds— transforming the future of Haiti.
The money went towards health assessments & medical needs, a food programme which provides locally grown food for the students’ meals, and some desperately needed books.