Now things have finally warmed up here in the UK and we've seen a glimpse of the summer sun, I wanted to reinforce the message around the importance of staying safe in the sun. This is especially important as I've seen a few ridiculous and actually quite dangerous "viral" trends cropping up recently e.g. DIY sunscreen and sunscreen contouring - I don't know who thought it was a good idea to "strategically" place sunscreen only on certain parts of the face, but you know it sounds like a terrible idea! As for DIY sunscreen, I think it goes without saying that it's not worth risking your skin as it's impossible to know the level of protection you'll get from something made at home without the right ingredients or equipment. It's not as simple as throwing in some zinc oxide and hoping for the best - sunscreen product development is one of the more complex skincare products to make, and it needs to undergo proper standardised testing to know the level of SPF (and UVA) protection it offers. I've also noticed a lot of questions on social media around whether make up with SPF provides enough protection, so let's address these and more!
Whilst the sun gives us a feel-good factor, we need to enjoy it responsibly. Sun protection is important not only for the prevention of skin cancer, but also to prevent premature ageing. In fact, UV exposure is the biggest cause of premature ageing (fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, tough, leathery skin). Exposing your skin to the sun, especially for extended periods of time can cause the skin to burn which increases the risk of skin cancer, and it damages the skin by breaking down collagen (the “scaffolding” that supports your skin) and elastin (which helps your skin fit “neatly” over your bones). As collagen and elastin break down, the skin becomes loose and loses structure – causing lines and wrinkles to form. Additionally, the skin tries to protect itself by producing more melanin but this production can be unevenly distributed which results in dark spots / hyperpigmentation. The regular use of broad spectrum sunscreen can help to mitigate the sun’s harmful effects. Tanning is basically the skin signalling to us that it’s damaged. You could even go so far as to say it’s a radiation burn (maybe this language would help avoid some of these ridiculous viral trends around sun exposure!).
Sunscreen isn't a suit of armour
Whilst sunscreen is an important source of protection for our skin, it's crucial to not rely on it alone. It's not a complete block, so UV rays are still going to reach your skin - and this is particularly true if you spend extended periods of time outside in the sun, you're in a high UV-index location (especially in the middle of the day!) and you're in and out of the water. So you'll need other strategies to keep your skin protected. The Australian Cancer Council guidance is really helpful for keeping people safe in the sun - they outline 5 key steps for the ultimate protection - SLIP, SLOP, SLAP, SEEK, SLIDE:
1. SLIP on UPF (UV protection clothing) which covers up as much skin as possible and reduces exposure. I find UPF clothing particularly useful for kids (my daughter didn't love constantly having sunscreen reapplied when we were on holiday so rash vests were a great way to keep her safe)! If you're UK-based, you can find good value options in places like Decathlon and Marks & Spencer.
2. SLOP on a minimum of SPF30 broad spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen. Apply a sufficient amount to get the stated level of protection - that's half a teaspoon for face, neck and ears; and a teaspoon for each limb and front / back of body (around 7 teaspoons for the full body - 35ml). I also recommend avoiding sprays and sticks as the main form of application, as it's hard to know if you're applying the right amount. These formats are good for reapplication however!
Broad spectrum means you get protected from UVA ("ageing" rays) and UVB ("burning" rays). The SPF number indicates the level of UVB protection and the UVA protection is indicated in a few different ways depending on where in the world you live. In the UK, the star rating is commonly used - you ideally want a 5* UVA rating for the best protection. In Europe, it’s common to see the UVA symbol with a circle around it which indicates that you’ll get at least a third of the SPF protection on the label. Asian sunscreens use the PA system: PA+ through to PA++++, which indicates a PPD of at least 16 (though the PA system isn't an accurate a measure of UVA compared to knowing the PPD or UVAPF). In the US, sunscreens labelled as “broad spectrum” will provide a level of protection from UVA and UVB, however unless the UVA level is specified, it is more difficult to be assured of the level of UVA protection. I have outlined more detail in one of my older blog posts on sun protection here if you'd like to know more about this.
Sunscreen wears off and breaks down over time so it's important to reapply frequently if you're spending extended periods of time in the sun and especially if you're in and out of the water. "Once" / 8 hour sunscreens may sound appealing but whilst they may last longer than standard sunscreens, there is still a likelihood of product being rubbed off / wearing off.
3. SLAP on a hat - ideally one with a wide brim (baseball caps provide very limited protection of your face, and visors leave your head exposed!). Again, I prefer hats with UPF for the best protection, but try to at least choose one that is tightly weaved to help block out the sun. I really like the hats from Wallaroo - I have the Wallaroo scrunchie UPF50+ in the petite version which is perfect for my small head and has a decent wide brim. It folds / rolls so easy to pack and take on holiday with you
4. SEEK shade - you'll always find me sitting by a pool under an umbrella when I'm relaxing on holiday, particularly through the hottest parts of the day! Trees etc will also provide some protection - though bear in mind, being in the shade doesn't completely eliminate UV radiation so ensure you're still wearing sunscreen and following these other measures.
5. SLIDE on sunglasses - in combination with a wide-brimmed hat, you can significantly reduce UV exposure to your eyes. I tend to wear oversized sunglasses as they cover more of my face!
Added bonus - please don't forget your lips! There are plenty of lip balms with high SPF protection in them. I've tried a few and still have yet to find any I really like (the taste of them really bothers me!), but I appreciate a tinted SPF balm as it also has the added benefit of a bit of colour on my lips!
Is make up with SPF sufficient to protect the skin?
No! I strongly believe that SPF claims in make up need to be removed as they are highly misleading and can lead to a false sense of protection. Whilst people who wear foundation with SPF may feel like they’re “killing two birds with one stone” and removing a step in their routine, it’s just not possible to apply the amount of foundation or tinted moisturiser required to give the protection stated on the foundation. It’s highly likely that you’re only getting a fraction of the SPF level claimed because no one uses a quarter of a teaspoon of complexion products on their face when applying make up – it’s a product that’s usually applied quite sparingly! Instead, I strongly recommend that everyone applies the correct amount of a dedicated broad spectrum sunscreen that they enjoy wearing. Let that dry down completely (so it can form an even, protective film on the skin), then apply make up over the top. There is no problem with applying a foundation with SPF over the top of sunscreen – just bear in mind that the protection isn’t “additive” i.e. if your sunscreen is SPF30 and your foundation claims to be SPF15, you’ll still be getting an overall protection of SPF30.
What shall I use to apply my sunscreen?
You don't need any tools to apply sunscreen and in fact you should avoid using things like sponges and brushes for application. Applying the correct amount of sunscreen is crucial in ensuring you have adequate protection from the sunscreen you’re using. The only way to get the amount of protection stated on the product label of your sunscreen is to measure out the right amount – which is on average a quarter of a teaspoon for the face (plus another quarter teaspoon for your neck and ears). If this is applied with a beauty blender, the blender acts like a sponge and will soak up a lot of the sunscreen during application, so you won't know how much actually ends up on your skin. In addition to this, there’s also the potential for bacteria to be introduced to your skin if the beauty blender isn’t clean. The best way to apply sunscreen is with your fingers/hands to ensure all the sunscreen ends up on your face!
Do I need sunscreen if I have a deeper skin tone?
All skin tones have the same number of melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin), but in deeper skin tones more melanin is produced - which accounts for the colour of our skin. Whilst melanin absorbs UV rays and therefore affords a bit of sun protection, when you are exposed to sunlight, more melanin is produced in order to protect the skin, which in turn can create issues with pigmentation and uneven skin tone (e.g. sun spots, melasma). As someone of South Indian origin, I'm a Fitzpatrick type IV, which means I burn minimally but I still wear my favourite SPF30 broad spectrum sunscreen daily to prevent any damage and support my skin health. I have tested a lot of sunscreens over the years and I really wanted to find something I would be happy enough to wear every day - many of the ones I tried were protective but felt awful on my skin or caused breakouts. That all changed when I discovered EVY sunscreen mousses - which I now sell in my store because they're THAT good! You can purchase them here. I love the mousse format which is extremely lightweight - so important for my skin which is prone to clogging and breaking out. It offers robust UVA and UVB protection and also works as a fantastic primer under make up - because it sinks so nicely into the skin, you won't find your make up sliding off the top!
Finally, I want to mention that I spent a lot of my younger years basking in the sun, and whilst I wore sunscreen, I was getting a lot of "intentional" sun exposure, and even used tanning beds a couple of times (the horror!). It's only the last 7-8 years that I've understood how that's affected my skin become a lot more careful with sun exposure and wearing sunscreen daily - so it's never too late to start being SunSmart!
