Over 2 years in the making and it’s finally here! I’ve been wanting to add a retinal (aka retinaldehyde) serum to my range ever since I first started using it back in 2017 (read my 2-part series here for my experience of incorporating retinoids into my skincare routine back then), but at the time this ingredient wasn’t available to a small brand like mine – which reminds me, I could write an entire blog post ranting about how difficult it is for small brands to access specialist cosmetic materials due to the ridiculous MOQs but that’s for another time!
The importance of Vitamin A / retinoids
Vitamin A is important for new skin cell growth, skin health and it’s also been shown to tackle the development of fine lines and wrinkles through the promotion of collagen – an integral component of our skin (think of it as the “scaffolding” of our skin). This is obviously of interest as we know that as skin ages, our natural collagen production slows so if you’re looking for ways to “age well”, then retinoids - the family of molecules with varying structures and mechanisms, which are all derivatives of vitamin A, are a great option to have in your skincare routine – particularly when you get to your mid-30s onwards when you may start to notice changes in your skin texture, feel and hydration levels (though I didn’t start using them until my early 40s and still saw the benefits!). It’s worth mentioning here that much of the beauty industry suggests retinoids should be considered from your mid-20s (as this coincides with the point at which collagen production starts to slow). However, given that most premature ageing is caused by UV exposure, I believe that unless you’re managing acne, diligent sun protection (avoidance of prolonged sun exposure, sunscreen and antioxidants) at this age will go a long way to protect your skin and retinoids at this stage aren’t really a must in my opinion!
Tretinoin (retinoic acid – the active ingredient that is used by our bodies in collagen production) is the prescription-strength version of vitamin A often prescribed for acne (and / or photoageing / premature ageing), though you’ll also see adapalene and tarazotene as other prescription retinoid options (and isotretinoin – Roaccutane, a vitamin A, in oral form used for the treatment of more severe forms of acne). Tretinoin is considered the “gold standard” based on a lot of clinical data to support its use, so we know that retinoic acid is very effective not only for managing acne, but also for managing sun-induced ageing (fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation). One of the things I love about retinoids is that they are true multi-tasking actives as they offer a number of benefits for the skin:
- they regulate cell turnover (which we need more help with as our skin ages)
- they promote the production of 2 of the key components of the dermis: collagen and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid) thus strengthening and plumping the skin
- they are comedolytic – they prevent the formation of comedones which result in acne
- they are anti-inflammatory
- they offer antioxidant benefits
- additionally retinal specifically is thought to have antibacterial effects, which could prove helpful for mild acne management
Out of all the skincare actives I have used, retinoids have had the most significant impact on my skin. In my late 30s I went from previously clear skin, to comedonal acne and issues with skin texture, and retinoids (specifically retinal, then tretinoin) were the only things that cleared my skin. It became clear, smooth and resilient in the space of about 3 months of using retinal! I then switched to 0.025% tretinoin, because I wanted to see if I could improve my results even further and I used it consistently for about 5 years. Tretinoin can be more irritating, so it was really important to use it alongside a very simple routine (documented in this post), whilst minimising the use of other actives (exfoliating acids, Vitamin C etc). By being quite diligent with this, I was able to use tretinoin without any issues (apart from when I tried to increase the strength!) and it really kept my skin looking great. But in the last year, I noticed that my perimenopausal skin was becoming increasingly sensitive and whilst I wasn’t experiencing any significant side effects of tretinoin (no peeling / flaking etc), my skin just didn’t feel as happy and it always felt “on the edge” (this is why it’s so important to understand and listen to your own skin when using actives!). I gradually started to replace tretinoin with retinal – initially only once or twice a week as I was worried my comedonal acne would reappear. But then I went on holiday in April and could only take one retinoid with me – I took my retinal and since then I’ve been using retinal exclusively 4 nights a week, and guess what! My skin has remained pretty clear (aside from the occasional hormonal spot), so I’m really pleased as it means I can now be a bit more flexible with my use of other actives (particularly acids which I rarely used when I was on tretinoin). Tretinoin is an excellent option for managing acne and there’s no doubt it gave me the results I was looking for, but it’s not for everyone – and the fact it’s only available on prescription (which is a good thing IMO as I believe they should be used under the guidance of a healthcare professional!) means that access can be difficult, especially if you live in the UK. Whilst cosmetic retinoids like retinol and retinal are not a substitute for their prescription counterparts if you have moderate to severe acne, they are a great option for “healthy / well ageing” and mild acne. Formulation does matter though and as with all skincare products, not all are created equal!
Cosmetic retinoids
Perhaps the most well-known cosmetic derivative is retinol (typically used at 0.2-1%, though recent changes in EU cosmetic regulation means that formulations are limited to 0.3% retinol - which is why we’re probably seeing an influx of retinol-alternatives!). Retinal (my favourite cosmetic retinoid) has gained more interest in recent years – possibly due to these changes in cosmetic regulation but it’s only in the last few years that a stabilised form of retinal became available, so this would have also affected the availability of robust formulations. Retinoids are inherently unstable (meaning they lose efficacy quite quickly over time), so looking for stabilised versions in formulations is important in ensuring you’re using a product with sustained efficacy. There are also a number of other topical vitamin A derivatives, for example retinyl propionate, hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), and retinyl palmitate. In order to be used by the skin, some retinoids need to be converted to retinoic acid. Unlike other cosmetic retinoids such as retinol, retinal is the immediate precursor to retinoic acid so it only requires one conversion step to become the active ingredient our skin needs so this may explain its seemingly better results, plus it can also convert to retinyl esters which are stored in the skin and used as required in low doses over time. The added benefits of retinal (which are obviously formulation-dependent) are that it’s generally considered to be less irritating, it can help with redness in the skin, and it offers an antibacterial effect that may be helpful in managing acne.
I discovered a stabilised, encapsulated form of retinal a few years ago and when I discovered it was accessible to a smaller brand like mine, I jumped at the chance to include a retinal serum in my range! Barrier renew retinal serum is the product of over 2 years of development and testing with my cosmetic chemist, supported by another wonderful chemist - Lalita Iyer (otherwise known as @skinchemy on Instagram) who has extensive experience of working with this particular form of retinal and was kind enough to offer her insight. I wanted this to be more than just a “retinal serum”, so I have created a comprehensive well-rounded formulation that could even be used as a standalone product on your retinoid nights. Along with 0.06% stabilised retinal*, barrier renew retinal serum also includes among other things:
- Signalling peptides palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl 3000, Matrixyl Synthe' 6): there are a lot of peptides around with different mechanisms and varying amounts of data to support them, but these particular well-known peptides act as messengers to promote skin repair to restore and retain the skin's appearance, smoothing and plumping the skin
- Amino acids: a blend of amino acids which make up part of the skin's own Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF), these skin-identical components help to support skin hydration
- Ceramides: key components of your skin’s natural lipid mix, this skin-identical lipid complex contains 3 different types of ceramides, cholesterol and the ceramide precursor phytosphingosine to help form a protective layer and reduce moisture loss from the skin's surface
I formulated this with more of a “mature” skin type in mind (i.e. skin looking for support with healthy ageing/ageing well which may suffer from dehydration and needs something a little more nourishing without feeling too heavy/greasy) so we have also included hydrating, emollient and soothing ingredients to round off the serum – panthenol, sodium PCA, allantoin among others. Rather selfishly, I wanted this to suit my own perimenopausal skin but I suspect it will be suitable for a lot of you out there! Given the strength and overall formulation, this serum would be suitable for beginner and intermediate users of retinal. The texture is similar to that of a lightweight cream with some substance (if you’re familiar with my moisturisers I’d put this in between skin quenching moisturiser and comforting moisturiser in terms of skin feel), so it may be enough for some skin types to use as a moisturiser at night. The bright yellow colour of the serum is due to the natural colour of retinal – it’s not noticeable on the skin but I recommend letting it dry down fully before getting into bed! One ingredient that I deliberately decided to exclude from the outset was niacinamide. Whilst I adore niacinamide which is great for skin barrier health and sebum regulation and it pairs really well with retinoids (in fact it can improve your tolerability of retinoids), it’s become somewhat of a “trending” ingredient which means it appears in so many skincare products these days. When this happens, it’s inevitable that we see more incidences of people reacting to it. So I decided to leave it out to give those who can’t tolerate niacinamide an option – and if you want your fix, then you can always apply my barrier support serum under the retinal (which is what I do!).
*A note on retinal strengths
You probably know how I feel about the constant one upmanship amongst some brands that insist on introducing higher and higher strengths of active products despite the risk of skin barrier disruption, and retinal serums are no exception. It’s worth bearing in mind that higher strengths (over 0.1%) often come with much higher likelihood of irritation for very little, if any, incremental benefits for the skin. The supplier of stabilised retinal recommends an optimal usage rate of 0.05-0.1% and this fits with the data I’ve seen to support the use of retinal so in my opinion, there is little point in pushing higher than this. With tretinoin there is a “sweet spot” that balances efficacy with side effects and that seems to be in the 0.03-0.04% range (though this may vary from person to person) – there is going to be a sweet spot for cosmetic retinoids like retinal too – in this case 0.05-0.1%. I suspect that these brands pushing higher strengths than this are trying to cannibalise the prescription retinoid market – but as I’ve said before, cosmetic retinoids are not a substitute for prescription versions, and you’re just as likely to see the type of irritation with retinal over 0.1% (and the same goes for higher strength retinol) that you may see with prescription retinoids. If you want to keep your skin barrier happy, use the lowest strength that gives you results – there’s no need to push for more!
How to use barrier renew retinal serum
has been formulated to be gentle, yet effective. Even so, if you're new to using retinoids and / or have sensitive skin, I strongly recommend starting slow and building up gradually to let your skin adjust and minimise the chance of irritation. Whilst retinoids aren't for everyone, a lot of the issues people report with using retinoids are down to the strength, frequency of use, and not considering skin barrier health (in terms of the current state of your skin, but also what else you use in your routine), so please read this guide carefully to ensure you have the best experience with your retinal serum!
- Don't start a retinoid if your skin barrier is disrupted / if your skin is sensitised - wait until its fully recovered before introducing any actives
- Streamline your routine at least, at the start: avoid using exfoliating actives (i.e. avoid chemical and physical exfoliants) in the same routine
- First time retinoid users / those with sensitive skin: scale back the frequency / strength of any exfoliants and ascorbic acid elsewhere in your skincare routine (i.e. even on other days) as your skin adjusts to the retinal
- Always apply the retinal serum to clean, dry skin (damp skin enhances penetration, so can increase irritation risk). E.g my typical routine is:
- For sensitive skin, patch test first on a small area of the face (e.g jawline) and observe your skin for a couple of days in case of reactions before applying to the full face, following the method below
- Sensitive skin may benefit from the either of the following methods to minimise irritation (initially or long term):
- This serum can be applied all over the face, eye neck and chest however, avoid any areas that are particularly sensitive for you or try the sandwich / dilution methods
- Make sure you’re wearing sunscreen daily (this goes without saying!)
Frequency of use
Initially start using your retinal twice a week, spaced apart for a couple of weeks (space apart applications because "retinisation" often happens within a couple of days of application). If all goes well, then you can increase to 3 times a week for a couple of weeks. Ultimately, you can aim to be using this 3-4 nights a week (sensitive skin may need to stick with twice a week - listen to your skin!).
My current routine is to use this 4 nights a week, then I exfoliate 2 nights a week with the remaining night focussed purely on hydration and barrier support. This routine seems to be working well for me at the moment, but as always, be guided by how your own skin responds!
Irritation vs purging
Purging is a possibility (though doesn't always happen!) with retinoids in skin that's already breakout-prone and more likely with prescription retinoids because of their potency. This is because they work by regulating skin cell turnover and cleaning out your pores, which can bring underlying spots to the surface, but this is temporary as your skin adjusts to retinoids - so it will pass. Spots take several weeks to develop before they even appear on the surface, and as retinoids will take a bit of time to regulate turnover, it's unlikely to happen when you immediately start retinoids. That said, many people experience no issues - this doesn't mean it's not working though, negative skin reactions aren't necessary to show the product it working!
Sometimes it's hard to distinguish between purging and irritation, but there are subtle differences to look out for and they are managed differently (i.e. you shouldn't "push through" irritation!):
| Purging: | Irritation: |
| Temporary, when acclimating at the start, but usually after quite a few uses | Happens every time you use product, doesn't ease off, often immediate (e.g. same or next day) |
| More likely in breakout-prone skin (where you typically break out - for me, this is my lower cheeks / jawline) | Soreness, stinging, redness, peeling, lots of little bumps/texture |
| Gradually improves once pores are "cleaned out" | Typically more diffuse (larger area) or in areas that are more reactive (for me this is always the top of my cheekbones!) |
| Continue use! | Scale back use if mild (e.g. slight tingling on application will likely ease up), or stop altogether if you experience significant irritation! |
Contraindications
Retinoids can be used by most people, but they must be avoided completely when pregnant or trying to conceive. Many experts also advise avoiding retinoids during breastfeeding however this is likely a carry over from warnings for pregnant women out of caution, because according to the LactMed database for tretinoin, whilst not explicitly studied, it's poorly absorbed after topical application so considered low risk to the nursing infant (providing you're not applying it to your breasts), and topical retinoids won't get into breastmilk. Dr Aegean Chan, a US dermatologist and mum has written a lot of content on use of skincare actives in pregnancy / breastfeeding so I'd recommend checking out her posts on this topic or speaking to a dermatologist for further advice.
What can you expect?
As I mentioned before, retinoids aren’t a quick fix so don’t expect instant results. They are working to regulate your skin cell turnover and promote collagen which doesn’t happen overnight! You need to use retinoids consistently for at least 3-6 months to see benefits but what you'll be rewarded with is smoother, fresher, more even skin which looks and feels healthier. You may notice improved skin softness / smoothness sooner than this though, thanks to the other key ingredients in this formulation (signalling peptides etc).
Below are some realistic results from consistent use of barrier renew retinal serum over 10 months, from one of my product development testers (who happens to be my mum, aged 70!). My mum has always had good skin and a very simple skincare routine (which then also included barrier support serum and sunscreen in the last few years) but this is the first "treatment" product aimed at well-ageing which she's used. She's never had any cosmetic treatments either. Mum has been on immunosuppressant medication for several years, which makes her skin more photosensitive, so given this and mum's age, pigmentation is to be expected, but overall her skin was in a good way even before starting retinal.
What stands out for me is the improvement in skin quality, which is very evident in the right image. Her skin is much smoother, skin tone more even and the skin looks fresh and healthy, with a glow. Even the skin under her eyes looks firmer. Considering this is the only "active" she's been using during this time, I think the results are great! Remember, we're not looking for perfect skin, instant results or miracle transformations - our focus is always on healthy skin as the goal, with a consistent routine: real skin, realistic results!
Whether you’re just starting your retinoid journey or you’re looking to try a different retinoid for healthy ageing, Apothaka® is here to support you and your skin!
Apothaka® barrier renew retinal serum launched on 3rd October 2024!
