Now that my range of barrier-based serums has expanded, I wanted to give you an overview of who these are for, and which can be paired together for maximum benefits. I've put together a summary chart which briefly explains the benefits of each formulation, along with key ingredients, suitable skin types, when to use and how often:
All 3 serums serve a different purpose, so depending on your skin concerns and goals, you could potentially have all of these in your routine (though not necessarily all at the same time!).
Barrier support serum (for hydration and overall skin health):
This bestselling serum (and the original barrier support serum that's been around before the skin barrier started trending!) is suitable for pretty much any skin type (including sensitive skin / rosacea - patch testing is recommended first). Barrier support serum has been designed to support overall skin health with 5% niacinamide, ceramides and multi-weight hyaluronic acid. It's a lightweight, water-based hydrating gel serum so if your skin is feeling dehydrated/tight (which naturally happens as we age and lose oestrogen in perimenopause / menopause), or if our skin barrier is compromised) then this can be a really helpful addition to your routine under a moisturiser. I formulated this serum to support my own journey with retinoids, as niacinamide (in the 2-5% range) can improve the tolerability of retinoids - it certainly did in my experience! It's essentially a staple for my perimenopausal skin now: an "everyday" serum which slots easily into a morning and / or evening routine in the following ways:
- in the morning has a hydrating layer (before barrier defence AOX, if using, and moisturiser)
- in the evening (before barrier renew retinal serum, if using, and moisturiser)
I personally use this twice a day as I love the hydrating effect this offers. If you currently use a "hyaluronic acid" serum in your routine, then barrier support could replace it, as this offers the additional barrier supportive ingredients on top of the hydration aspect. You can read more about this serum here.
Barrier defence AOX serum (defence from free radical damage):
Free radicals are generated through internal processes and external assaults (UV exposure, pollution and irritants) and as our skin ages, its ability to fight free radicals becomes more limited, which leaves the skin open to oxidative stress. This stress in turn results in inflammation and skin ageing in the form of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and dehydration. The antioxiants in barrier defence AOX can help to enhance the skin's own defence system, stabilising free radicals before they cause damage, and providing an additional safety net alongside sunscreen. Barrier defence AOX serum features a comprehensive system of 8 antioxidants, including encapsulated ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP) - a gentler, and more stable derivative of the ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), along with astaxanthin, licorice, white tea, acai and chia extracts, plus CoQ10 and vitamin E.
This is a protective serum for anyone interested in healthy ageing as it helps to prevent any damage from environmental assaults. This has a similar light, gel texture to barrier support so it's suitable for most skin types. If you have tried to incorporate a vitamin C product into your routine, but find it too irritating for your skin, barrier defence AOX is a much gentler alternative. I recommend patch testing for very sensitive skin as the base (which helps to keep the formulation stable) may not suit those with sensitivities to glycols for example.
It can be used in the mornings (after barrier support, if using, and before moisturiser), but I also often use it together with barrier support serum in the evenings under my LED mask, as the antioxidants can help to counteract free radicals generated by LED - see here for more info on the use of LED and antioxidants. And you can read more about barrier defence AOX here.
Barrier renew retinal serum (tackles the signs of premature ageing):
Whilst barrier support and barrier defence AOX are more focussed on prevention of damage and supporting / maintaining the skin, our newly launched barrier renew retinal serum can help to address the signs of premature ageing. Of all the skincare actives out there for "healthy ageing", for me, retinoids (the vitamin A "family" to which retinal belongs) are the hardest workers - the true multi-taskers as they help to regulate skin cell turnover and promote collagen, which both slow down as we age. Teamed up with signalling peptides, Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl Synthe' 6, amino acids, licorice extract, ceramides and multiple hydrators / skin soothers, this formulation works hard to smooth and brighten the skin, softening the appearance of fine lines, tackling UV-induced premature ageing over time.
This is a serum to consider if you're noticing the signs of ageing such as fine lines, pigmentation and changes in skin texture (e.g. your make up no longer sits well on your skin) - this typically becomes noticeable in your mid 30s, which is a great time to consider starting a retinoid. Barrier renew retinal is a lightweight emulsion which has the feel of a light moisturiser (somewhere in between the feel of skin quenching moisturiser and comforting moisturiser if you're familiar with those). You can apply this at night around 3-5 times a week for "well ageing support". As mentioned above, as niacinamide improves the tolerability of retinoids, you can layer barrier support serum under barrier renew retinal serum as they pair together really well. Further details on barrier renew retinal serum can be found here.
If you've been trying to decide which of Apothaka®'s barrier serums you can benefit from, hopefully this post has helped! I should also mention our gentle enzyme exfoliant which fits into the serum category. As the name suggests, this overnight chemical exfoliator contains a blend of fruit enzymes, multi-fruit acids and lactic acids in a milky serum base to gently support the skin’s own natural exfoliation process, breaking down the proteins in excess surface skin cells (mature cells, not dead cells!) - resurfacing & moisturising the skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth and healthy. This is a great option for those who struggle with strong chemical exfoliants, we recommend using it 1-2 times a week depending on your skins tolerance / need for exfoliation.
As a final reminder, don't forget the importance of daily sunscreen which is a must before you consider any of these treatment serums, as sunscreen is the best defence against premature ageing!
You can shop Apothaka®'s curated range of serums here
